Cartier
The jeweller who made the wristwatch respectable
Cartier does not come from watchmaking but from the art of the jeweller — and that is precisely why it has created forms no watchmaker would have designed. The Santos, Tank and Ballon Bleu are design icons that resist every passing fashion.
The evolution of Cartier
In 1847 Louis-François Cartier took over his master's workshop in Paris. Under his successors Louis, Pierre and Jacques, the house became jeweller to the royal houses of Europe — Edward VII called Cartier the jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers.
In 1904 the Santos was born: Louis Cartier built it for his friend, the aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont, who could not operate a pocket watch in the cockpit. It is regarded as one of the very first wristwatches designed for men.
In 1917 came the Tank, its lines inspired by the aerial view of a Renault tank: parallel brancards flowing seamlessly into the strap. The form has since been reinterpreted in dozens of variants — Tank Louis Cartier, Tank Américaine, Tank Française, Tank Must.
In 2007 the Ballon Bleu added a round, deliberately soft form with its characteristic curved crown guard. Cartier has belonged to the Richemont Group since 1993 and operates its own manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
- Founded
- 1847 in Paris
- Founder
- Louis-François Cartier
- Manufacture
- La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland
- Group
- Richemont, since 1993
- Milestone
- Santos, 1904 — Tank, 1917
- Signature
- Roman numerals, blue cabochon crown
What matters with Cartier
- 01
In recent years Cartier has grown from a piece of jewellery into a seriously regarded collector's object. Vintage Tank models and limited Cartier Privé editions in particular attract international demand.
- 02
Dial condition is decisive at Cartier. Lacquered dials with Roman numerals are sensitive to moisture, and re-printed dials are a common value killer.
- 03
Diamond settings should always be checked for factory origin. Stones set later reduce collector value considerably, regardless of the quality of the work.
Cartier at Predeluxe
Questions about Cartier?
Book a complimentary live call with our specialists. We will explain the process, answer detailed questions and guide you in your decision — regardless of whether the piece is currently available.
We purchase Cartier — discreetly, verified and at fair market terms.
Send us a few details about your watch. You will typically receive an initial assessment from our experts in Zurich and Dubai within 24 hours.