Nautilus
The steel watch that changed the market
Gérald Genta reportedly sketched it in a few minutes over lunch in Basel: a case shaped like a ship's porthole, a horizontally ribbed dial, an integrated bracelet. Fifty years later, the Nautilus stands as the symbol of luxury's shift from gold to steel.
The evolution of the Nautilus
In 1976 Patek Philippe introduced the Ref. 3700/1A. At 42 millimetres it was considered exceptionally large at the time — collectors nicknamed it the Jumbo. The advertising slogan read: One of the world's most expensive watches is made of steel.
The two-piece case construction with lateral hinges was borrowed from shipbuilding. The flattened octagonal bezel with rounded corners remains unmistakable to this day.
In 2006 the Ref. 5711/1A replaced the previous generation. It became the most sought-after watch on the market and was discontinued by Patek Philippe in 2021 — a decision that massively affected the secondary market.
The line today spans chronographs, annual calendars, moon-phase models and executions in rose gold and white gold. The Ref. 5712, with power reserve, moon phase and small seconds, is one of the most distinctive interpretations.
- Case
- Rounded octagon, 40–42 mm, two-piece
- Dial
- Horizontally ribbed, embossed structure
- Bracelet
- Integrated, alternating satin and polished finish
- Water resistance
- 120 metres
- Materials
- Steel, rose gold, white gold, platinum
- Movement
- Calibre 26-330 S C / 240 PS IRM C LU
Key reference numbers at a glance
What to look for when buying
- 01
The Nautilus is the benchmark for condition assessment. Because satin and polished surfaces are set precisely against one another, any refinishing is visible and lowers value.
- 02
The Extract from the Archives should accompany every purchase. It confirms the original configuration of dial and case.
- 03
The steel Ref. 5711 continues to trade well above its original list price. Rose gold executions show a smaller premium but a calmer price trajectory.
- 04
Check the bracelet for play between the links. A worn integrated bracelet is costly to replace at Patek Philippe.
Patek Philippe Nautilus at Predeluxe
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