Royal Oak
The octagon that changed everything
Eight visible screws, an octagonal bezel and a bracelet that flows seamlessly into the case: the Royal Oak was a provocation in 1972 and is today the foundation of an entire product category.
The evolution of the Royal Oak
In 1971 Audemars Piguet commissioned Gérald Genta to design a steel watch to be presented the following morning. The result was the Ref. 5402, unveiled in Basel in 1972, 39 millimetres in diameter and more expensive than most of the competition's gold watches.
The name refers to the HMS Royal Oak of the British Navy, whose porthole construction inspired the octagonal, screwed bezel. The eight white-gold hexagonal screws are fastened from the reverse.
The Tapisserie dial with its fine checkerboard pattern is still produced on historic guilloché machines and remains one of the watch's most elaborate details.
In 1993 the Royal Oak Offshore expanded the line with a larger, more robust format. In 2022 the entire family was revised to mark its fiftieth anniversary, including the new calibre 7121 in the Jumbo Ref. 16202.
- Case
- Octagonal, 34–41 mm, integrated bracelet
- Bezel
- Eight visible hexagonal screws
- Dial
- Grande or Petite Tapisserie
- Finishing
- Satin surfaces with polished bevels
- Water resistance
- 50 metres
- Movement
- Calibre 7121 / 4302 / 5909
Key reference numbers at a glance
What to look for when buying
- 01
The Jumbo references with their extra-thin movement are the heart of the collector market. The 15202 was discontinued in 2022 and has traded at a significant premium ever since.
- 02
The integrated bracelet is critical to value. Check for play between the links and the condition of the end link at the case junction.
- 03
Over-polished cases are especially conspicuous on the Royal Oak, as the sharp separation between satin surface and polished bevel is lost.
- 04
On rose gold models, examine the screw heads closely. Damaged hexagonal screws suggest improper handling.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak at Predeluxe
Questions about Audemars Piguet Royal Oak?
Book a complimentary live call with our specialists. We will explain the process, answer detailed questions and guide you in your decision — regardless of whether the piece is currently available.
We purchase Your Audemars Piguet Royal Oak — discreetly, verified and at fair market terms.
Send us a few details about your watch. You will typically receive an initial assessment from our experts in Zurich and Dubai within 24 hours.