Submariner
The dive watch against which every other is measured
The Submariner set the template for the dive watch once and for all: a rotating bezel, a high-contrast dial, a robust Oyster case. What began in 1953 as a tool for professional divers is today the most sought-after sports watch in the world.
The evolution of the Submariner
In 1953, Rolex introduced the Submariner Ref. 6204 — water-resistant to 100 metres, with a bidirectional rotating bezel for timing dives. The idea was so compelling that it still defines the shape of every dive watch made today.
The 1960s brought the details that came to define the model: the crown guard, a unidirectional bezel as a safety feature, and from Ref. 1680 onward, a date window with Cyclops lens.
The Ref. 5513 ran from 1962 to 1989, making it one of the longest-produced Rolex references ever. Its date-less, cleanly structured dial is considered by many collectors the purest expression of the Submariner.
2010 marked the transition into the modern era with the Ref. 116610LN: a ceramic Cerachrom bezel, a Maxi dial, wider lug shoulders. In 2020 a careful revision followed with the Ref. 126610LN, enlarged to 41 millimetres and powered by calibre 3235.
- Case
- Oyster, 40–41 mm, Oystersteel or gold
- Bezel
- Unidirectional, 60-minute scale
- Water resistance
- 300 metres
- Dial
- Chromalight luminous material, glowing blue
- Bracelet
- Oyster with Glidelock extension
- Movement
- Calibre 3235 with Chronergy escapement
Key reference numbers at a glance
What to look for when buying
- 01
Date-less references appeal to purists and have held their value steadily over the years. Those who wear the watch daily tend to prefer the date variant.
- 02
On vintage references, the dial is the most important value factor. Original tritium dials with an even patina command significantly higher prices than those replaced during servicing.
- 03
Watch the case shape closely: over-polished lug shoulders lose their edge and cannot be reconstructed. We inspect every case for material loss.
- 04
The so-called Rolex 'fat font' bezel and early bezel inserts without a minute scale are prized details on the first series.
Rolex Submariner at Predeluxe
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